Week 12 ( Vietnam
– Hanoi, Cat Ba)
13th
to 20th of October
There is nothing
as exciting and hard as waking up at 4:45am on a Monday morning. Maybe one
thing…getting 4 sleepy children dressed and in the car by 5am!! Well, at least
we had a lovely chauffer in Marianne. Thanks again for taking us to the Beijing
airport, Marianne! A travel day which included two flights, Hong Kong Airport
and the 3:30pm arrival in Hanoi, Vietnam. Everything running smoothly,
including our booked taxi- pick up. It is just the bestest thing to came
through the ‘nothing-to-declare’ corridor finding you name being flagged about
on a piece of paper: Hotel Tran welcoming Marilie Theron!!
Vietnam welcomed
us!!
The 45min
transfer between the Hanoi Airport and our hotel just north of the Lake… in the
Old city, took us passed rice fields, some crazy moped drivers, water buffalo
and peculiar looking room-wide sky scraper buildings. We’ve left China behind
us and were now driving into our next experience. No English coming form our
driver, but that’s the beauty of pre-book hotels and transfers…you just follow,
wherever you are lead!!!
A pre-booked taxi
pick up was not necessarily the way that we have travelled in the past, but to
keep everybody smiling and with an extremely good exchange rate, we allow
ourselves this luxury!! The biggest smile comes from Arno, who enjoys the added
bonus of extra help with the luggage!! Public transport is available, but will
not necessarily take us close enough to our hotel…then we need to get a taxi
anyway, so we’ve decide to just go with the recommendations of our
accommodations in the different locations. If our hotel organizes the transfer
for us, it also saves us being cheated out of our cents by eager taxi-mafia’s
and we can pay for it at the hotel. Worked well for us so far!!!
Arriving at our
hotel, downtown Hanoi, we were faced with our first Vietnamese challenge – to
get to the steps leading up to our hotel, which were situated on the opposite
side of the road …..
Even though it was a relatively narrow street,
the mopeds and cars and bicycles came flying down it, with no particular order
or direction. Luckily we had some advice given to us by an older couple we met
while the panda’s were chewing their bamboo…walk relatively fast, determined
and do not stop(!!), just keep walking…just keep walking till your feet were
hugging the opposite pavement (if you are lucky enough to find one!!) Deep
breath… I grab hold of as many children and bags as I could, looked left and
right (there was really no point in this road-safety-awareness drilled into me)
and then we gave our first step into this chaotic wilderness. Under my breath,
without looking left or right, just focusing on where I was aiming to reach the
other shore of safety, I was mumbling: “Just keep walking, do not stop, just
keep walking, just keep walking.”
Pfeew!! It
worked!!! I actually brought the kids and I safely across a road in Hanoi,
Vietnam. Praise God!!!! I got a new understanding of the concept of ‘organized
chaos’. During our 2 night stay, I did not see any crashes, but another
taxi-English-speaking driver told us that there are at least 30 every day. In
Vietnam’s largest city of 10 million people, you will find more than 1 million
scooters. Hanoi is definitely awarded the title of Moped capital of the world!!
After these first
challenging moments, it was such a relief to be welcomed by the wonderful staff
of the Hotel Tran. Our family suite on the 7th floor was extremely
clean and surprisingly quiet. A small kitchen and bathroom with washing machine
(!!) made me smile. Indeed home away form home!! Over the following two days we
were overwhelmed with kindness and hospitality of the staff members. So
whenever you find yourself in Hanoi, this will be my recommendation for a
comfortable, 20 minutes walking away form markets in Old Town, accommodation!!
When planning our
trip, Hanoi was not really one of our destinations, but since it was our portal
into Vietnam, we decided to stay here 2 nights to orientate ourselves into the
Vietnamese culture and to figure out what our transport options were to get to
the Cat Ba Island. We were looking for something to get us out of the hotel and
decided to make the 25 minute taxi journey over to the Vietnamese Cultural and
Entomology Center.
Here wee found
respite in the midst of the cool garden. We could let the kids roam and explore
the various exhibits of traditional tribal life, playing and exploring in the
various replica huts while mum and dad had a very tasty Vietnamese coffee,
before heading back to the buzz of the old quarter of Hanoi. This was our first
introduction to the way they serve coffee here. A white coffee will and at your
table, pretty black, but they you’ll realize the white layer at the bottom of
the cup/glass. Yes, they serve their very strong coffees with condensed milk.
It is pretty amazing!!
Another world awaited us…The 5pm traffic honed
our road-crossing skills. We got hustled by picture book Vietnamese double
basket fruit and veggie and everything else – sellers.
Eventually we settled
down at a pavement café to indulge in traditional Vietnamese ‘fermented’ meat,
battered and deep fried. I am not exactly sure what kind of meat this was, but
if I go by the guidebooks, they tell me it is normally pork. Sure enough, I did
not care, because it was absolutely delish and the kids were racing each other
to the last little dough ball. This delicacy is served with a sweet chili dip
and we ordered a nice cold Hanoi beer on the side, our new favorite!!
The next day
found us on our way to Cat Ba via Hai Phong with a super tooter bus. Our ticket
was supposed to take us from Hanoi to Cat Ba Island/ We knew where we were
headed, but it ended up quite a different process, than we imagined in getting
to our planned destination!! We were ushered onto a bus to Hai Phong (2h),waited
for 20 minutes somewhere on a roadside for further instruction. Then onto
another bus (30minute) which took us to a wee petite water taxi, over the worst
city roads I’ve ever been on. The water taxi (speedboat with around 30 seats)
met us in some obscure jetty somewhere around Hai Phong. We then commence on a
30 minute open sea crossing, through some fishing houses on stilts and
limestone rock towers. Once docked (we were really not sure where we were) we
were led over to another bus that was waiting on us. Still not to sure if we
were on another island or on Cat Ba itself, we just had to sit back and enjoy
the ride. Only once I’ve noticed a wee road sign with ‘Cat Ba Town 10km’ did I
know that we were not too far form our home for the next 4 nights. Big bonus,
the bus dropped us off right in front of our hotel in Cat Ba. Nice!!
We were welcomed
by Mr Tuan of the Duc Tuan Hotel on the the Cat Ba bay. Dragging our luggage up
the 7 flights of stairs looked like a very big workout, after travelling for
nearly 5 hours, with multiple luggage-changes. So you can imagine our relief
when we got to the first floor and laid eye’s on the lift!! A delightful bright
room awaited us. With 4 double beds, the kids were spoiled for sleeping arrangement
choices!! For once Alana and Thomas had a bed to themselves!! They were
overjoyed!! The first time since we’ve left Scotland, and that was now a good
two months ago. When you are together, 24/7, like we’ve been lately (!!) and
had to share not only bedrooms, but beds, on most nights, the luxury of having
your own bed, is just the bees knees!!! We unpacked and settled down watching
the sun setting over the Cat Ba bay. The most rewarding sight to a long hard
exhausting day of travelling!!
A lovely sunny
day welcomed us and provided Arno and I with the rare opportunity of an early
morning run…first he then I!! We decided to visit the Hospital Cave. This cave
served as a secret, bomb-proof hospital during the American War and as a safe
house for Viet Cong leaders. Built between 1963 and 1965 (with assistance from
China), this incredibly well-constructed three-story engineering work was in
constant use until 1975. The cave is about 10km north of Cat Ba Town on the
road to the national park entrance. Read more
Mr Tuan sorted us
out with a 7-seater and driver, we agreed on a price and off we went. While we
were exploring the cave our driver waited for us, drinking tea!! We decided
against using a guide, because not many of these guides use too much
understandable English. Unfortunately the ‘guide’/caretaker was a bit miffed
with us and did not even open the back door of the cave to us. We had to
climbed all the steps back down! We just had a wee laugh about it, once
realized that we could have left the caves via a different iron-bolted door at
the back. Luckily some self-exploration round the back took us into the most
awesome butterfly mecca. The girlies
were in their element, trying to capture these shy animals to admire their
beauty. We saw some zebra-striped ones and some huge black and purple lovelies.
The kids took a
fancy going for dinner at the Good Bar/ Noble House Restaurant. With a Western
and Vietnam menu everybody was happy. (We went there for 3 out of our 4 nights
on Cat Ba.) The two main reasons really, why they insisted on us going there
EVERY night, were because they could read the menu in English and a lovely
couple we’ve met on our journey over to Cat Ba was having their dinner there
too. Thank you so much Dara and Sue for listening to all their wee tales,
helping us with lugging the bags around and providing the boat-building beach
entertainment!! I just loved loved loved the fresh seafood they served here.
The most juiciest and tender squid I’ve ever eaten. I was thinking so much of
my daddy, who really loves his squid (calamari). They prepare it in the
Vietnamese way, with a lot of sweet and sour and spicy flavors stir fried
swiftly together with some lemongrass, peppers and a carrot or two. Absolutely
something to write about!!
The Good Bar is also
home to our chosen outdoor pursuits outfitter: Asia Outdoors After evaluating options, we decided to go on a full
day kayaking boat trip. Initially Arno was interested in using them for some
“Deep Water Solo” (rope-less rock climbing, with the option to let go and fall
into the deep clear water – one of the few places in the world to offer this
adrenaline sport.)
Back to our visit
of the Hospital Cave. We ask our driver to drop us off at Cat Ba beach 1. There
is also a beach 2 and 3, but we opt for the first one. Welcoming warm South
Chinese Seas together with a nearly empty beach, was just adding to our island
adventure.
Dawn broke,
overcast skies and we had to get ourselves prepared mentally for a potentially
VERY wet kayaking expedition. Upside, once you are wet, no rain can make you
more wet. So we were ready for some water adventures. Since we started to plan
our trip and I laid eyes on the beautiful bizarre karst landscape, formed when soluble rocks
dissolve, I was fascinated. I was looking forward to get a bit up close and
personal with these beauties. Read some
more about the Cat Ba karst landscape here.
Our party size
for the day were 20 tourists and the two guides. After a short bus ride to Ha
Lan Bay, we boarded our floating home for the day.. The boat sailed through
some magnificent floating villages to reach our first stop. Asia Oudoors
specializes in tailor made day trips to multi-day multi-activity excursions in
lesser know lesser touristy bays.
We were paired up
for our kayaks, given some life jackets, but these were just accessories.
According our guides, most people just use them as back rests! Not the hottest
day of the year, we actually opted to wear ours as a heat source and insisted
on the kids wearing theirs for obvious safety reasons!! I really should have
taken another one with me…my coccyx came out second, after sitting for a whole
day on a VERY hard uncomfortable kayak seat. Alana and Thomas shared ores with
the two guides, Andrea and Grant, both originally from Canada, just doing a bit
of short term money saving work on the water. No certificates were required
when they applied for the jobs, just a natural way with people and a love for
..I guess kayaking??!! Nina in with me and Ph in with Arno. A hard day’s muscle
work ahead for Arno and I!!
Not for one
moment did we not feel safe in the hands of our experienced guides. They knew
exactly where to take us, which direction to paddle in the choppy waves (which accompanied
the light and later more heavier shower) First excitement of the day was to
maneuvered our kayaks through, or shall I say underneath a very low gap between
ocean and rock, to steer us into a wonderfully hidden calm lagoon.
We got the
opportunity to jump out of the kayaks into the see-through water. Needless to
say, Alana did not need any encouragement, with Nina short on her heels. Well,
all of the Theron’s grabbed the swimming-in-the-rain opportunity. Nina and
Philippa were absolutely delighted with their floatation devices!! What proved
to be a bit more challenging than getting out of the kayak into the water, was
getting back inside the kayak without capsizing the thing!! With a bit of help
even I managed safely back inside!!
All too soon it was time to return to the
boat for a delicious lunch prepared by the boat crew. Some interesting after
lunch chat with an Israeli traveler helped me to keep the seasickness at bay.
Man. I was happy to be back in my little kayak!! Afternoon brought
in more clear skies and it actually started to heat up a bit.
 |
| Photo bombed!! |
Our last day only
left one box to tick, we had to go for a little jungle trekking to one of the
highest peaks in the Cat Ba National Park. This park is home
to the only 69 Langur monkeys left in the world. Between consoling Thomas that
we were making too much noise for a snake to approach us AND negotiating the
clambering over sharp rocks with a 3 and 6 year old, there was not too much
time left to look for these specimens. We did actually see one of the giant big
squirrels while kayaking, so at least we can use that as our claim to fame of
spotting endangered wildlife in Cat Ba!!
All too soon a
BIG travel day was lying ahead of us again, but we still had a few hours on
Sunday morning to explore the market. My haggling skills are starting to pay
off and I purchased a sweet little miniature porcelain tea-set. (My skills in
packing and wrapping is increasing along side my collection of little
memorabilia too!!) Philippa, Nina and I had a wee wander through some back
alleys in the old town and we were rewarded with a wee sneak peek into the
lives of the locals. Everybody’s doors were left open, no one used tables to
have their mid-morning noodle soup, but sitting on polished tiled floors.
One
room apartments were quite common, and the locals were running out of their
front rooms (only rooms) when they noticed us in the street to come and greet
us. The older ladies were calling their children and grandchildren to come to
meet us. Was so sweet!! Philippa actually asked me later to go back there, but
time was running out. At no time did we feel vulnerable.
There was an
option of getting a hydrofoil straight form Cat Ba Bay, but we were advised
against it, since it is quite notorious for breaking down, and we really did
not want to miss our flight form Hai Phong!! So we opt for our former way of
travel.
Mr Tuan organized our bus pick up, straight in front of the hotel. He
even blessed the children with drinks for the road. Please go and stay with
him, if ever in Cat Ba. He was so kind and helpful to us!! A message was also
passed onto the various staff of the local bus company, that we needed to get
to the airport. So off we went at 12:30pm by bus to the other side of the
island, rust bucket ferry awaited upon us, a few scooters and their owners and
us and our luggage!!
Bus awaited us on mainland Vietnam and here it got
interesting. As we entered Hai Phong, we noticed our bus driver slowed down and
started shouting to somebody outside…bus still in motion.. Then a sudden stop
and with wild gestures, we realized he needed us to get off. Now we noticed
that he has organized a wee taxi for us. Ok, when I say wee, I really meant it!
It was the size of a Kia. Only one back pack fitted in the boot, we pilled the
other bags onto the font seat and then squashed ourselves and the left over
hand luggage onto the back seat. This gave a squash and a squeeze a new
meaning!! We arrived at the very small airport 2 hours prior to departure, so
in control and relaxed! The 55min flight took us to Danang Airport where we
were welcomed by our taxi arranged through the accommodation. Another 45
minutes to the town of Hoi An, this time enough space for each of us in the
taxi to stretch out and have a snooze! We arrived at Loc Phat Homestay by
7:30pm. If your calculations are the same as mine, within 7hours we’ve used six
different types of transport and we were hanging about an airport for two
hours! Praise God for great travelling experiences like this!!
All in one week.
Next time I’ll
elaborate on my favorite travel destination so far: Hoi An, Vietnam.