The long way Home - Week 21

Week 21 (Nepal,UAE,South Africa)
15th to 23rd of December
We've been travelling for nearly 5 months. With a bitter sweet taste in the mounth, we entered into the last week of this life changing adventure. For now I'll just report on our travel experiences towards the east of Kathmandu, Nepal and finaly Dubai, but I will need to write another blog on reflections...which might also interest you keen followers of our blog!!  So first things first!!

Heather and Mika, once again, blessed us in all our needs for dry washing and good Nepali food (Big thanks to Babetha) and helping us with good reliable taxi drivers. 
To my oppinion, you cannot visit Nepal and not lay eyes on the tallest mountain on earth....so we plucked up courage (you need a lot of it to negotiate the traffic and crumbling national roads, mountain-break-neck passes and the throwing-up factor accompany this whole ordeal...!!!) Our first port of call was the authentic city of Bhukthapur, still party down in the Kathmandu valley, but heading in the "right" direction.

The town of Bhuktapur was just such a delight. We've met another traveller in India. He reflected back on his first experience of travelling in Nepal, some 20 years ago. According to him, Bhuktapur, in all is carved wooden delight, is just but a reflection of what the rest of Nepal looked like then. Narrow cobblestone streets wind between the red-brick houses, joining a series of squares and courtyards that are peppered with temples, statues,cisterns and wells. We had to pay a steep entrance fee of $15pp, but we paid it with a smile since it goes towards protecting and maintaining the temples.

Ancient Bhaktapur grew up to service the old trade route from India to Tibet. At the peak of the Milla dynasty(14th to 16th century) the city boasted172 temples, 172 pilgrim shelters and 152 wells. An earthquake caused major damage in 1934, but the locals manage to restore most of the buldings. A German funder stepped in 1970 and the streets of Bhuktapur were paved and extensively restored. They also established a proper sewerage and waste-water managment system.

We were absolutely delighted with our family room above a small inner courtyard in the Kumari guesthouse. It was on a side street, just off the popular Dunbar Square. The low ceiling provided a cozy atmosphere...messing with our minds, since the cute little woodcarved shutters were letting in heaps of (how shall I put it?)'fresh' air.

 Our afternoon stroll around this ancient jewel included a visit to a rooftop restaurant and a go on the biggest manually driven pottery wheel I 've ever seen on the Potter Square. With the help of a very kind local potter, myself, Thomas and Alana created our very own little claypots. Unfortunately we could not take them with us, but Mr Potter gave us a smaller, already baked, money jar. Nina was on the receiving end of the gift and she named her present: Mr Boem-Boem. We also had a demonstration of the whole firing process: first they stack all the freshly made pottery items on a big heap, cover it with straw and then seal the heap by strewing ash over the top. Now the straw gets lit up to burn through the night. Next morning result: neatly created pots, cups, moneyboxes and all the rest.  
  

I, well and truly, fell in love with the amazing Nepali Masala Tea (Actually sitting here with a cuppa now!!). This brew is created by slowly cooking equal amounts of milk and water on a stove, with one scoop of Neapli tea granuals mixed in. Once ready to serve, you add a pinch of masala spice to it. A ture winter warmer....And I desparately needed some warming up!!!! The icy winds from the north were cutting through our bones, BUT we had nice Nepali hats to cover our ears!

At last we were on our way towards Sagarmatha,or at least as close as we could get to her at Nagarkot. Peaceful Cottage and Cafe du Mont is positioned on on of the highest hills in the are. The added bonus of climbing up on top of the roof of the 3 story building, gave us a complete birds eye view of the Annapurna and Manusla Range, Ganesh Him Range, Langtang range, Jugal Range, Rolwaling Range, Mahalangur Range (Everest range) and  Number Range with splendid views of the Kathmandu Valley and  Shivapuri National Park. 8 out of the 13 of the Himalyan ranges...not bad!!!

 Well, we had a love hate relationship with the stay here in Nagarkot.... So we were placed in the ‘newly built’ block, which is quite a number of steps down the hill from the main restaurant and warm cozy gas fire. Well, besides the long hike to our rooms (at least the walking heated us up a bit) it ws ABSOLUTELY ‘BALTIC’ in the rooms. We so totally appreciate the staff’s concern for our frostbitten state...by 8pm on our first night there (we were all tucked up on bed, dressed in gloves, scarves,wooly hats, bed socks and ALL of our warm clothing) there was a knock on the door. At first we were thinking to ignoring the unwelcome guest, but then Arno braved the elements and opened the door. To our surprise, a ‘runner’ was sent to deliver a hot water bottel to each of us. Wow. We were so thankful.

Another sweet memory moment presented itself shortly after our arrival in our rooms. After months travelling in the East, we were well accustomed to the petite wet rooms as an excuse for an en suite (shower over the loo...whole bathroom turns swimming pool after a wash session...). So at the Peaceful Cottage we were taken to our rooms. On inspection we were called over to the washrooms by the excited shrieks of the crew: “Mum!! Dad!!! Real bathroom!!!!!!” They were sooo delighted with the size of the bathroom and the fact that the shower was separate from the basin and loo. Well, their excitement just lasted until we were all jumping around naked, trying to keep the blood circulation going while we were praying for the water to heat up.... well, needless to say, the next night we did not even bother with the shower...baby wipes, you've served us well!!!!

What we missed in central heating systems, the mighty mountains made up in displaying creation in it's breathtaking splendour! Today, I can still see those mountains form our view across the valley - these pictures will be in me..... with me ....forever...

A few last Dahl-baht( '24hour, no bath, no shower' courtesy of Shree, expedition leader) -dinners, and a final 'Namaste" left us all with a bitter-sweet-travellers-good-bye-tear-in-the-eye! We absolutely fell in love with Nepal. I pray that we will have more opportunities to explore this country and her people in the future...the Mustang and Basecamp will always keep calling my name....The short 2h hour flight back to New Delhi gave us one last chance to feast our eyes on the snow covered hilltop country.

An overnight stay in a cheap, close to the airport hotel in Delhi, was just an inconvenient truth. Initially we would have stayed in the airport for a 4am departure to Dubai. The flight time got changed and we had to overnight in India, one final time....back to the swimmingpool bathroom..

Now we were starting to get very excited about our last stop...not just for the fact that we were in the last week of this epic journey back to our roots, but we were soo looking forward in seeing our friends, Scott, Sam, Zac and Mia. This family has relocated here from Scotland at the end of 2012. What a privilege to have started this adventure all those months ago in the presence of our Scottish pastor-buddies in South Carolina, USA and to be spending the last 4 nights again with kindred spirits, faith building  and zealous adventurers. I just love it how God connects people, for a specific purpose and goal. Nothing is a coincidence!!!! 

We were met by Scot at the Dubai International Airport. It's is just such a joy to be looking out for a familiar face!! And it was warm again!!!!!! Yay!!!!!

 At home( a mere 10min away) Sam was waiting, welcoming us with big warm hugs and it took the kids all of 5 minutes to settle down, playing with their friends - like it was last week since our last meeting!!! 

We were spoiled with trips to the Mirdith Mall, Jump-Box(trapoline world), Dubai Mall, fountains by night AND by day, a trip to the beach, an adult-only coffee night out, intro to Nesspresso coffee (flavours galore),machiatto and chilli-mocha, a super car scouting trip, hours of just talking and great fellowship! Thank you friends! We came away from you, refreshed and and re-charged for the next adventure awaiting upon us!!

Our last day had a special surprise waiting:The Birj Kalifa.  At 829.8 meters this is the tallest artificial structure in the world. In a few seconds we were whisked up to the 124th floor (453 meters) to have a nice look-out over the ever-changing vista over of the city and ocean. BIG.

It was was with a churning of emotions, that I started the process of packing our bags for the final time. We aquired a few soveiniers in the UAE and also had to find space for our tailor-made wardrobe, which was couriered here from Vietnam. This 'packing' has the potential to freak a normal person out...but we were now WAY beyond being a "normal" family, with 'normal' things in their luggage...for a start we've been carrying a Vietnamese rice hat with us for more than 2 months, a plastic pipe protecting a rolled up oil painting, we've got an inlay marble platter,a football.... from swimming goggles to ski-jackets and too many pairs of shoes for the counting.

 My heart was not really racing because of the art of remembering WHERE each item will need to be sqeeuzed into ...I think it was just more the realisation that we've seen an almost 'impossible' dream through. We've lived with it for the last 2 years and now we've tasted the pure joy and exhilaration of accomplishing exactly what we envisioned, planned for, worked towards and now experienced.

We've done it!!!!!!

By the grace of God, his protection around us and running ahead of us, we've tased success in accomplishing our dream of travelling around the globe with our 4 kids and we loved it!!!

Our last 8 hour long flight, took us from north to south over our beloved Africa. we were eventually also treated with an aerial view of the Tulbagh Valley(my place of birth) and then...very exciting...a view of the Kasteel Berg and the Riebeek Valley, our new home!

A friendly official welcomed us back at the immigration counter and then the best surprise...a life size African Elephant statue. I nearly started weeping. The last few months were scattered with elephant encounters....Asian Elephants though..... and here we are being welcomed by our own!!! This was God's sign to me that we have made the best decision!

We were home again.....

Sherpas and BIG (HUGE...... actually THE BIGGEST!!!) mountains...haaaaaaaaaa - Week 20

Week 20

6-14 December Nepal (Kathmandu, Pokhara)

After a very busy week in India, we were getting mountain fever......we were actually going to the Himalayas!!! No wake up call needed, we were all ready and excited when our taxi-toot came!!

A very short hour plus 20 minute flight took us from New Delhi to Kathmandu and we wee enchanted with the display of the Himalayan beauties en route.

It took us longer to get through the airport red-tape, but at last we found ourselves in a Nepali taxi catching the late Saturday afrenoon activities in the streets along the way to the house of our hosts!! Heather, Micha, Sereana and Prakash stay close to the Boudha stupa in western Kathmandu. We are so thankful to our American, now living in Scotland, friend Heather Canter, who connected us. The Nepali Heather very kindly offered to host us for two days and to help us acclimatizing to the Nepali unorganized chaos!! To start off with, no street addresses. You basically need to tell the taxi- driver the general direction and area you want him to take you to. as you getting closer to your target,  you either need to direct him with a 'right here' and ' left there' or ask him to call the hosts so they can direct him!!!!! With Heathers excellent directions, we managed to arrive on own steam in front of their green garden gate!! Proud moment!!!! (You travelers will understand this!!)

Heather and Micha have been missionaries establishing God's Nepali church, by investing time and energy into the youth. They've been living and working in Kathmandu for over 12 years, met each other here and will celebrate the 10th anniversary in January. They've adopted a few Nepali children, all of them teens now. Their own little daughter, Sereana, will turn 3 also in January. God's blessed them with an amazingly big house. Twice weekly Heather hosts kids clubs and twice weekly Micha ( originally from Fiji) host bible classes for the teens. We were given the use of their library, the floor was covered with matrasses and Heather was pilling on blankets against the cold. We were barely in this room, before our children were all lost in a book. Warm fuzzy feeling!!! We were welcomed to a Nepali meal of alloo paratha( flat bread/potato pancake) and choli ( chickpea stew) with an amazing tasty dip called 'achar'. New flavors, but so delicious!! Thanks to Babitha who has prepared it all for us.

We got instruction about energy saving (electricity only available to use in the evenings…otherwise solar energy is used...that means-no hot water or washing machine until the power is on at night time…). No used toilet paper into the toilet (we are very trained regarding this by now!!!) and do not flush the toilet after using it...unless you are doing a 'a big flush'!! All to save water ( some body need to go outside a few times per day to pump water for the house from the garden well). This is just the way things are being kept under control at home. There are so many other everyday tricks of the trade living in Kathmandu...a way of life so foreign to us... bad, really bad roads, poverty like you can not believe to be right at your front door, neglected animals, raw meat laying in open dust covered stalls...1.4 million living in this city amongst the hills and valleys out of the 28 million Nepali's in total.

Arno was on washing duty, once the electricity came on, round 6pm. He also hung it all out on the rooftop, ready to catch the first rays in expectation of drying, the next day.

We were all excited, waking up on Sunday morning, because a Nepali expat community house group was meeting at Heather and Micha's house. The kids got to make cute Christmas ornaments under Heathers supervision… and the toilet roll creations are safely packed into our bags ready to be hung on Ouma Leta's Christmas tree!! We met some very dedicated (mainly) America families, who raising their own families in the dusty city of Kathmandu, helping people to see and experience the love of Christ on a daily basis. One family, Kami and Aaron will be hopefully come to visit us on the farm in January, while they are staying with friends in Cape Town!!!! How awesome is that??!!

After church we were spoiled with another Nepali meal prepared by Babetha- Heather's helper. Under Heather's trained eye we started the packing for our trek in the Annapurna range close to Pokhara, west of Kathmandu. After too many hours of research, we've decided to go under the supervision of an very experienced Nepali trekking company, Earthbound Expeditions. The owner, Rajan, was so quick with his response on my e-mails and answered all our questions to make us feel confident enough to invest in this Himalayan higher altitude experience. We initially planned to take the public bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara, but once we calculated the cost and weigh up the convenience factors, we decided to go with a private jeep (organized for us by Earthbound). We paid a bit more, but it was a door to door, VS pick by taxi in Kathmandu, waiting on the public bus.....puke factor, no stop... then another taxi in Pokhara. For me there was really no comparison!!!!

Pleasantly surprised on Monday morning to realize that our trekking guide, Shree, will be chaperoning us to Pokhara. Well, that was the whole experience in short....on time, very efficient, accommodating, stress and hassle free and when you throw in the awesome wonder of God's creation....unbeatable. Well done everybody at Earthbound!!

After the chaos of getting out of Kathmandu got behind us, we were 'climbing' up various little mountain passes, beeping our way around hairpin bends and just marveling at the ability of all Nepali drivers, regardless of the sizes of their vehicles, to miss one another. The scenery was amazing with breathtaking drops and the snow caped mountains drawing nearer and nearer!! To complete the 230km took almost 8 hours, including our coffee/hot chocolate stop and lunch stop. Reaching Pokhara we for once understood why the expats in Kathmandu were all drooling when they hear we were going that way. With a beautiful lakeside, reflecting the awe-inspiring Annapurna mountain range, this town is just such a peaceful mountain getaway from the dust and noise of Kathmandu. Resting in the shadow of two out of the 10 highest mountains in the world, we were getting really excited about our forth coming trek. The streets are lined with small pavement shops displaying the most colorful and authentic  Nepali knitwear, blankets and good replacements of local quality outdoor gear...(sometimes  I could not even spot the difference!!)

On Tuesday morning we were still halfway through breakfast when Shree and our three Sherpa /porters arrived in the minivan. Again spot on time and we were ashamed of not being ready to go... Yet..... We continued on from Pokhara for one and a half hours, deeper into the Himalayan green.

At New Bridge we got ourselves sorted out and off we went!! So Babuu, thinnest and tallest of them all carried Arno's huge backpack plus his own, fastened on top of that. The whole load is then tied in the signature Sherpa way- he used the shoulder straps of the back pack, but added his rope device to it, so that he could carry the bulk lf the weight on his forehead and neck....jip, that's right, the strap rest around his head and he pulls forward with his neck to lift the weight off his shoulders. Amazing!!!!!

"Sherpa" is actually the name for a Nepali people group living in the  north eastern part of the country. They are well known for their knowledge of the mountains and their ability to live and work in high altitude and hostile environments!! Because of these qualities this people group has been identified to be great escorts and awesome helpers during trekking. Therefor the peculiar name given to the very strong and agile Himalayan porters.

Then there was Robbie, he carried a small, stuffed daypack of ours and her attached himself to Nina's side. To start off, the little girls were walking quite well, but little people have little legs and sometimes little legs gets tired just that bit quicker...so Robbie was our special Nina helper. Or as she calle him: "my carrier". Even if she was walking, he was never far from her, most of the time holding her hand!!!

Kabina was Philippa's self-appointed shadow!!  Both him and Robbie were quite stocky and tiny in built, but so strong!! Kabinda carried his own small trekking bag and then the little lady, on request. The children were just hoisted onto their shoulders and off they went. Sometimes Philipp was complaining a bit that she was getting scared on Kabinda's neck...he was a fast walker, so it could be quite daunting sitting so high up while he was basically running down the steps......but I am getting ahead of myself here.

After starting up a gentle sloping local access gravel road, we passed the new bridge’ .... still under construction. Every year during May, June and July when the water level of the river rises sporadically due to the melting of the snow higher up on the peaks, the poor little bridge washes away. We saw the reconstruction attempts of the little bridge in progress. We've got so much to be thankful for.

Leaving the small hamlet of Birethanti behind us, we were ascending the into the foothills of the mighty Annapurna’s. Over the next 4 days our bodies were transformed into mean walking machines. We continued on the dirt local access road into the hills till lunch time. The Nepali government has put money aside to build this road 5 years ago. Up to this time, local access was limited to the winding footpaths. After lunch (cooked to order at a little mountain restaurant) we left the road and continued on the local footpath. Beautiful, but quite challenging at times. No faffing about anymore, just one step at a time, up, up, UP!! We were so proud of Thomas and Alana who had to walk all the way. We reached our mountain hotel in Ghandrung (2060m) just as dusk set in. At this height, in close proximity to the Fishtail Mountain, with it’s snow capped peaks, it was absolutely freezing!! Here we fell in love with the typical Tibetan mountain dumplings, called ‘momo’s’. A momo can be filled with cheese, chicken, vege or ‘buff’ (beef!!)

Day two breaks the day with the most awesome sunrise. We decent the mi-zillion of steps down into the valley AND then up again to the village of Tolka. We arrived early afternoon after our 6 hour walk and really had a fun time just to souk up the high mountain beauty. We went for a little exploration and met up with really friendly locals, working their rice and bean lands.

Shree decided that the vista’s from the Australian camp was not going to give us a full picture, so on day 3 we continued a bit further till Dumpus. The rooftop view of Machapuchare (Fishtail Mountain at 6993meters) was just mesmerizing and totally overwhelming.

All to soon we had to greet our team of porters. We appreciate their help so much, their mountain songs, their oozing love for their mountains, fun Nepali chat, strong legs and arms and contagious singing – we will always cherish these memories!!!

Back in Pokhara, we had one mission: Christmas shopping!!! A very successful couple of hours secured great discounts and friendly smiles! Everybody happy. We enjoyed a last meal at a traditional culture show, wrapped up from head to toe…because it was cold!!!!! The Himalayan winter was approaching us at speed!

We stayed with our host family again in Kathmandu and loved the time of joint fellowship. Heather suggested for us to leave most of our extras with her, while we do our last little trip towards the east of Kathmandu. Because of the daily power cuts and the approaching winter, not to mention a very big wet rainy day, we were really struggling to get all our trekking washing dry. Thanks to the suntrap on the flat roof, we were good to go at lunchtime on our last Monday in Nepal.