Tuesday 16 September 2014

Big cliffs and racing tracks - Week 6

Week 6
1st to 6th of September

A change in scenery, cities, temperature and wild life embraced our last week on mainland US of A!!

After our two nights in Vegas, enough to stuff ourselves with pancakes and custom-made breakfast omelets, catching up on our mountain of washing and lazing around the pool, we were not too sad to leave the loud bright lights behind us. We were heading towards Yosemite National Park, via the Death Valley.  Very ambitious 418 miles  that is suppose to take one just over 7.5hours… Luckily we knew that this might not happen, due to various stops and slow-slow mountainous windy roads…but we did not think that it will take us THAT LONG…….


For a place carrying the title: hottest place on earth, we surprisingly fell in love with the Death Valley. The average temperature for the month of July is 116 °F (round 42°C ) and the hottest temperature(134°F) was recorded in 1916. During our short visit in the park, we recorded 116°F on the car’s thermometer. The beautiful pastel coloured patterns trapped inside the rock formations, blew me away. It was as if I was looking at a painting of the hand of a master(!!??!!). On entering the park, we took a wee side trip south, passing by the Devil’s Golf Course and the Natural Bridge on our way to Badwater Basin – famous for being the lowest point in North America, 288ft below sea level.
Badwater Basin - featuring Nina, Marilie and special guest: Hippie
This basin used to be a salted lake. All the water has evaporated over the last few thousand years and left us with a 1 to 5 ft layer of salt. I wanted to test some theory about baking an egg on the hood of the suburban.. well, to my disappointment, IT WAS NOT HOT ENOUGH!!!!! After a quick stop at the visitor center to pick up some more Junior Ranger materials and do a water bottle refill, we were on our way for the second leg of our journey towards the BIG cliffs.


We were starting to get a bit nervous as the sun dipped behind the towering Sierra Mountains, because we realize that we will not reach our campsite in the Yosemite Valley before close to midnight!!!! I did not want to miss out on the scenic route over the big mountains, so we decided to look for some alternative roadside accommodation. Now….after two attempts at camping sites were unsuccessful, we were reminding ourselves that it was indeed Labour long weekend here in the States, and that we will need some drastic measures…. Praise God for our guide book (again)!! We found a free suite at the Boulder lodge next to lake June, as darkness was setting in and energy levels were starting to run a bit low.

The Meadows and Tioga access Rd(summer only!!) over the mountain into the Yosemite basin, were worth the early stop. We were stunned by the enormity and vastness of these granite mountain domes and rock-climber’s wonderland.
We pegged our tent down in the Upper Pines site and made sure that we read through all the ‘making your camp bear proof’ material. Each pitch was provided with a double door sized kitchen steel cupboard to lock ALL food and toiletries into. We were not to even leave anything ‘smelly’ inside our car. (Every year round 100 cars get dismangled by black bears trying to get access to the food left inside it!!) Besides the bears we were coming to understand that the cheeky grey ground squirrel might be a bit more of a pestering persistent issue regarding storing our food away!!
During our exploratory drive and walk to the visitor center(this place is a maze of little one way roads, parking areas …miles… from where you need to be) we encountered the most amazing peaceful dear, grazing amongst all the millions of cars and people(4 million of them every year…) ....totally at ease with the knowledge that this park belongs to them!!!
Our two days here were filled with a walk to the Vernal Falls(Alana and Arno walked to the waterfall and went for a refreshing swim, while the rest of us waited for them at the ‘bridge’), a ranger walk( we learned about how to recognize different trees and about their important function in nature) and we also went to and evening screening of Nature Notes, movies made about different aspects of wild life and the behind the scene photography within the park.) I learned about Moonbows  and Frazel Ice
I loved Yosemite, the beautiful river(we had two ‘baths’ in there) the bright starry skies and the warm camp fires, but I must say the crowds of people( within an hour of opening, on the booking dates, ALL the campsites in the Valley are normally taken!!) and traffic jams were hard to cope with, especially when you want to get under the skin of this awesome creation. I think I’d like to come back to Yosemite in March/April…to beat the crowds and to see the Frazil Ice!!
On our way from the interior to coastal California, we made a brief stop at Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequaoias This ended up being one of Thomas’s highlights of our whole camping-in-nature experience. These giant trees (500 of them) huddle together in this little valley, close to the southern entrance of Yosemite. The walk was a bit dusty and warm, but we manage to get the troops to view the “Fallen Monarch” and the “Bachelor and the 3 Graces”. Giant Sequoias are the largest living thing on planet earth with ages between 3000 and 4500 years!! What really fascinated all of us, is that their seeds are to be found in the smallest of them all pine cones!!
Samllest pine cone seed carrier for BIGGEST tree on earth
A little mustard seed parable from the Bible springs to mind here: Jesus said that even if we have a faith as small as a mustard seed, when put into action, BIG spiritual mountains will move to provide us with the right idea, connection or relationship so we can achieve what we are believing God for!!
Old giant's feet...shallow root system
With their shallow root system, the Sequoias are prone to be pushed over by strong winds….but they tend to grow close to one another. The significance of this is, that if their roots(which are hidden from our eyes) get inter-twined with one another, they are getting a better grip on the soil and have the best chance of surviving stormy nights. A nice analogy of how God has created us people to do life, survive ‘our stormy nights’ and grow better here on earth too!! Getting those good spiritual ‘root’ ties into our marriages…keeping our children close in love, with excellent boundaries, and communicating well with our business partners and friends. Yes, we can position ourselves into those strongly-anchored places!!!(Oooooo, I got a bit carried away!! These Sequoias defo made a bigger impression on my than I first thought!!!)
Rachel fore-warned us about the San Francisco traffic, nevertheless we found ourselves trapped in the inside of the city. On a positive note, this gave us a lot of time to look around and take in the sights…and once we started to hit the bridges, we were pretty much content!!
On our approach into the city centre of San Frsncisco


Bay Bridge

Golden Gate Bridge
The Bay Bridge and the Golden Gate Bridge, man!!! These are great engineering sieges!! Did you know that the Golden Gate Bridge is the most photographed structure in the entire world?? AND WE WERE CAMPING UNDERNEATH IT!!!!!!!!!! After days worth of seeking for affordable SF accommodation, Arno stumbled upon Kirby Cove Recreational Area. Because of our traffic delay, it was now dark as we arrived at our secret destination. With NO light, beside the lights of the Bridge coming across the ocean towards us, we were a bit lost about where to go and how to negotiate our allocated VERY BIG pitch! (Some advice to future Kirby Cove Campers…arrive in daylight!!!!) Under torch light we quickly pitched our tent, because the information sheet warned us about the resident raccoons who were ‘excitedly awaiting our arrival’. Even before we hammered the last peg, a little friend was on the table behind my back, investigating our dinner. Dad, Moma and baby gave their positions away by their yellow gleaming eyes….quite a freaky sight on a very dark night. They were very inquisitive about their new neighbors, but once we wizened up and stored all the food away in the locker provided, they lost a bit of interest in us. Pfeew!!! Alana had another encounter with our animal hosts, but I’ll ask her to tell you about that herself.
Saustinuto, overlooking SF, was the chosen spot for a bagel breakfast. Beautiful little seaside town, with most people commuting to SF for work using the ferry. After a few attempts in downtown SF, we eventually found a..not so expensive($30 for the day……..) parking space. Well, at this stage we still had to brush our teeth and comb our hair, since we did not have any runny water at the campsite…so we just gone a bit ‘tinker’ish’ and brush it here in the car park(roof top) overlooking the bay. Hee hee! Gross, yes…but soooo funny at the same time!!! A wander down to the harbor and around Fisherman’s warf, opened up into a surprise visit to one of the US WWII submarines, Pampanito. The best of it all was, while we were on it, they even started the engines!!!!!
 Our cable cart(old fashioned trolley that runs on cables up and down all the hilly streets of SF) to downtown and the bus back, gave us time to see Lombard street (most curvy street in the world!!) and some big glass and steel towers!!

Windy Lomard street
Now it was time for dinner at Pier 39 – fish paradise and some long awaited Crispy Crème Donuts! Before we headed back to raccoon paradise, we had a wee peek at the Pier 39 Elephant seal colony. Kirby Cove provided us with another night of accommodation. What a cheap way to stay in San Francisco….but not for the faint at heart!!!

We decided to travel down the Pacific Coast Highway en route to Los Angeles. A beautiful coastline between Carmel and Cumbria. We followed the coastal High Way 1 and stayed beside the breathtaking rocky sea cliffs as far as possible. Beautiful white beach at Santa Cruz gave us a chance to see if it is possible to play volleyball with a football! Conclusion…yes it is, but not for long, because one’s back can’t handle the weight of the ball forever. At least we had one happy boy!!!
Monterey, brought a welcome late afternoon coffee stop, while we investigate the old 1930’s fishing canneries. This former fish factory is now one of the most popular destinations in California!! Little nick-nack shops are host inside the former corrugated metal industrial buildings. 

 The last stretch down Hwy 1 took about an hour longer than anticipated… The windy roads and slow sightseeing traffic all contributed to this…not to mention the large number of scenery-viewing stops…. Needless to say that the children were very ready to climb trees and run around when we got to our camping spot at Plaskett Creek ,Los Padres National Forest.
We slept like babies on the lush, soft grass for the last two nights of our camping trip. A very relaxing day on the beach(together with every surfer in this area!!) was a well needed reward! Now let me just quickly picture the scene: we found ourselves in a campsite over a weekend, with surfing families. Let me explain…this lot of mommy and daddy surfers might’ve met each other on the surf scene a few years ago. Now there were little mini-me’s running around! Besides carrying the 5 surfboards, sporting the beanie/tammy hats, havanna’s and denims on the beach, they were also dragging about nappy/diaper bags and babyslings!! Thomas and Alana were the oldest kiddo’s in the waves!!! We have never been part of such a family surf affair before!!


Something very sweet that we would just like to remember was Thomas’s self-initiated project. For whatever reason…I guess to kill time in the car..he started working on a dream start up line for a 400m race. He was planning this for hours!!! Made up names for all the athletes from all the different countries around the world, figured out the time’s of each athlete achieved during the ’pretend’ heats and put them into a final race. Their lanes were premeditated….all that was still missing was a racing track!!! Plaskett Creek beach provided him with the space needed!! I helped him to draw the track in the sand and then we all were acting out our part in this Olympic style event! He was so involved with this, it kept him busy the WHOLE day. He was also very annoyed with the people who walked over his track and could not believe the audacity of a surfer-family, to pitch their beach tent on a corner of it…. I had to help him to re-shape the track, while he was giving the poor oblivious people evil stares….. This is the kind of fantasy entertainment I LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE!!!!!.
Thomas busy keeping score of the winners to all the pre-lim races
I’m exhausted just typing it all up. Hopefully you’ve read this through to the end…forgiven if not!!!And all of this in just 7 days!!!
Carpe Diem…
Oh Captain, my Captain….