Day 27 The day of the TollRoad Mash-up, Breathtaking Beaune and Mustard of Dijon (7 Jan 2023)

7 January

It was actually quite easy to get the team to pack-up and clear out our apartment. It is just such a joy to be travelling with older children. They are such a help!!! We were ready to explore further into the French country side and the snow was melting at speed anyway(2023 European winter was recorded as the second warmest of all times...) - We were sad to leave, but ready to go!!

We meandered down the valley to La Chambre, passing the Beaufort Formage Farm (I am visiting it next time!!) Stopped for for snacks, supplies and mountain berry jam to take home with us. At this point, in hindsight, we should have been along that motorway for hours already...but we were still very oblivious to what awaited us.... With music paying, we headed north towards Geneva and Lyon.

Done with the small little narrow mountain paths, the open-road ahead. Arno just set the speedcontrol on our rental and relaxed back into his seat.......or not...

 Vehicles everywhere......the whole of Europe was heading home after the ski/Christmas holidays. On top of that.... the resorts around where we were, were being closed to holiday makers, because of the melting snow...

So Arno cancelled cruise-speed to a more appropriate 10 miles per hour and we decided to enjoy some car spotting open-window sing-a-long with our car-pool neighbours, who also realised we were all in this together!!!! The chaos of vehicles approaching the toll-plaze...well, let me put it like this - I have never seen traffic like this anywhere in the world I 've ever been!!! BUT, no red-faces, no honking, no aggressive hand-signals... We were all in this together!!!

 

I would have preferred a cross country drive, but we were already so late, that the Toll roads were the only option. And TOLL they made us pay!!! The distance you drive on the road, equal the Euro's you pay. 

At least it was a clear day, so we can admire the beautiful winter landscape. The kids were exhausted after 6 days of physical activity, so they welcomed a day in the car of mindless series-watching, sleeping and just staring our of the windows. 

Although we were delayed with hours of traffic-watching, we could still sneak in a tourist-stop at the ancient town of Beaune. Beaune is a walled town at the center of the Burgundy winemaking region in France. Surrounded by the Côte d'Or vineyards, the cobbled town is renowned for an annual wine auction held at the Hôtel-Dieu (Hospices de Beaune). Recognized by its colorful, geometric-patterned tile roof, this 15th-century former hospital is now the Hôtel-Dieu Museum, showcasing works like "The Last Judgement" altarpiece by Van der Weyden.

We marvelled at the spectacular roof of the Hôtel-Dieu  and stood in quiet contemplation in front of that altar piece. A visit to Beaune should be on every croissant-lover's bucket list!! Before we took the cobbled streets back to our vehicle, we allowed ourselves a little stop at the "wine market". Well, needless to say, in the home of the world's most famous charity wine-auction, we could not even afford a little 'odd-bin' red-blend.....

Domaine de l'Hôtel-Dieu - Hospices de Beaune

From donation to donation, the Domaine de l’Hôtel-Dieu – Hospices de Beaune has acquired some of the finest vineyard plots in Burgundy. Pernand-Vergelesses, Corton-Charlemagne, Pommard, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet…these great Burgundy appellations sold at auction as cuvée, bear the prestigious “Hospices de Beaune” label.

It was getting a bit late in the day, but we could not miss out on an authentic Fallot Mustard tasteing expereince....

 Darkness was just settling in, as we arrived in Dijon. Our overnight stop - loaded with history, culture and ancient stories.

We checked into Odalys City Dijon Les Cordeliers. An old monastery changed into an apart-hotel, in the centre of the city.  Beautiful large rooms; a double for Arno and myself and a junior suite for the teens.(We laughed a little, their suite was larger than the whole apartment the 6 of us shared in Saint Francois Longchamp.

We had a few minutes of a bed-flop-down, while Arno were driving around in on-way streets searching for the 'just-around-the-corner' carpark. Bless this man. Everyone was starving, but finding an eatery turned out not so easy as we thought it will be on a Saturday night. While we were on the hunt for a ...burger and chips.... we stumbled upon the little famous Dijon Owl trail (more about that later) and ended in at a busy crossroads with a lit up Arc de Triompf replica. We loved the surprise!! Now to still find food......

The younger traveling companions were craving junkfood, so we ended up at a French-fast-food establishment. We were hungery, the food was good and did not break the South-African budget (which at this time...on the road for 27 days, was developing a few holes....!!)

A last after dinner wander through the lit-up deserted streets of the old city of Dijon, brought us back to our hotel. We went to bed in great expectation of following the copper owls around the cobbled streets, when we wake up.

                    

Bonne nuit, Dijon.

Day 21-26 Six days on the (melting...)SNOW (1-6 January 2023)

1-7 January 2023

Dawn broke with a tingling excitement in the crisp mountain air. We were all looking forward to our first day on the snow. A little bit of nervous energy encourage everyone to get dressed quickly, but I was stuggling to work up an appatite. On ski-days I always have few butterflies in my tummy…I guess it’s just the expectation of being a bit out of my comfort zone, feet strapped onto two moving slides….which, by now (I tried out skiing nearly 25 years ago for the first time)I, guess, I should be quite familiar with….but still…

It was our first time in Saint Francois Longchamp (SFL),so we were still unsure of the lay-out of our resort. On the first morning, we decided to put all the ski’s in our rental car, and drive the few 100 meters down to the car park (we spotted it from your window). It was closer to the snow, but we found out, that it was still a long – uncomfortable walk down a hill, before, we could eventually click on our ski’s. (On day two, we knew better and walked from our little flatlet!!!)

Each person had a six-day lift pass in a jacket pocket, helmet, gloves, slope-map. We were good to go!! With ski’s secured to our boots, and one foot strapped onto the snowboards for Arno and Alana, we slid causiosly towards the ski-lifts. Once the sensor of the access boom picked up my lift pass, I could schuffle through. Be aware – this boom just lifts up for a few seconds…if you are not careful and maybe got your one ski stuck on one side of the post and the other on the other side, it is a whole palava… (some experiences were gain the hard way!!)

Now, once you’ve managed to negotiate the access-boom safely, you schuffle onwards to the ‘flying-carpet’, which is a rolling rubber mat, designed to transport you into the correct position for ‘mounting’ the chairlift - the next obsticle. 

Let’s introduce you to the ‘Chair lift’. The point of access to all the fun you will hopefully experience on the mountain….if you are a conqueror of this evil-kenivil. Now,some of these contraptions have a bench for 6, others for 4 and the small ones for two people. It is always a balancing act, to get yourself AND your lift-companions safely on and ultimately safely off the chair…without tangling your ski’s, or poles with another’s equipment or loosing your balance on the dismount.(Again, I’ve seen it and done that!!) Stressfull for many, but unavoidable if you want to ski or board in the mountains. This skill is one of the first, very essential super-powers you will need to master. ….that is beside, balancing on a slippery slope; steering on a slippery slope; stopping on a slippery slope; and MOST importantly not crashing into other unbalanced participants. Jup!!!

We decided to take two lifts back-to-back. The plan was to get high up, getting away from all the first-day-on-the-mountain crowds. Similarly, we also had to find our skiing-legs. Usually a bit easier, if one does not have to dodge other skiiers at this early stage of the game!!

Unfortunately, we encounter a problem from the word: Go. For some reason, the ski-shop attendant has given Nina very tall ski’s. We thought it would be ok, but once she pushed herself away, we realised….the getting-the-ski-legs-going, might not be going at all for one member of the crew. Numerous tumbles, tears and a loss in confidence tainted the first-day-of-the-year-family-outing a bit. With great love and patience (excellent parenting resilliance from Arno) we all skiied safely down to our lunch in SFL. Arno and Nina visited the ski-shop again, got her smaller ski’s and went for a quick test run. Pfeew, paradise returned to our 

midsts.

A very fun afternoon follwed as Arno and Thomas went for a few red runs(even attempting a a black ice wall) and us girls bought a bum-slide, building snow ramps and having snowball fights. 

The clean fresh stingy mountain air, is just the best promise to lead us into the new year.

 The rest of the week included…well….. skiing!!

Mornings fell into a little pattern of hitting the slopes as soon as the chairlifts open (9am to 4:30pm). We returned home for warm fresh Frence breads, cold meats and soup. Then a little rest before doing a few last runs, before the last chairlift goes up the mountain. 

Some afternoons I just went for a lovely walk with one of my girls. Arno and Thomas went out to the snow most afternoons, but the body does get tired towards the end of the week, though. 

A few thoughts at the back of one’s mind, always there to motivate the tired muscles: ‘It is a huge privilege to be here; it costs a lot; I do not know when we will be able to do this again…let’s make the most of this moment!!”

What is great about having all these people with the same size feet, but different equipment…everybody can get a shot at trying skiing or snowboarding. So alternative afternoon activities included, ’swapping gear’, snow-walking, reading, doing the laundry, while eating crepes, reading and more skiing. 

 

Arno and I also celebrated our 24 anniversary on the 2^nd of Jan, by going to a sweet little Alpine restaurant for a local cheese(Beaufort Formage) fondue and Kirsch(Cherry snapps). Yes, that’s the joy of travelling with older children…the parents can actually go out on their own!!!!

The start of 2023 saw Europe being hit with the worst warm weather known. Obviously we did not expect that, when making the bookings. We were amongst the chaos of melting snow, ski-runs closing due to lack of snow and equipment getting damaged because of rocks(and tar-roads) poking through the snow/ice blanket. 

Towards the end of the week, conditions got realy schetchy. The snow turned to suger-slush. That means that it might freeze during the nights, just to crystalize, then melting quickly on the sun-kissed side of the slope in the morning. On the shadowy side of the slop the fluffy snow melts and then freeze again to ice. So when you do your ski-turn across the slope, you are mostlikely to stuck your ski in some slush (which will defo throw you off balance) AND then on the other side (still in the shade of the mountain) you will do well to hang on, due to the ice….quite tricky!! 

Once Nina got her confidence back, it was just the best to ski as a family together. Yes, we do fall and yes, you do get tired and annoyed, but it also provide the best of dinner conversations, the best of laughs and the most beautiful forever memories.

Eating at one of the slope-side restaurants is very expensive, so we always keep that as a little last day treat. We marked a great spot early on, but on our last day, we were not sure if those runs might have been closed due to the melting snow. Great was out delight, when we found it still open. We induldge in the best hot chocolate and mulled wine, the sun was shining and the French Alps stretched out as far as we could see. 

Now THIS, is what it is all about! 

It was time to greet the mountains, slopes, slush…and time to start saving up again for our next skiing week…however long that may take!!

 

 

Costs

Ski-lift passes             200EUR  pp

Ski-equipment            70-140 EUR pp

Ski-gear                     gloves, goggles, socks, thermal underwear(leggings and long sleeve tops),              

                                    salopette (ski-trousers) and ski-jacket

                                    pre-order to deliver at accommodation from Decathlon      

                                  

Accommodation        R9000 (7 nights,for 6 people, Booking.com)

                                                                        

                                                                                  

 

Day 20 Annecy to Saint Francois Longchamp (31 Dec 2022)

31ste December 2022

Now, to follow the gps on your car- display is not alway so straight forward as you might wish to believe. Firstly, with this model of car, you can not zoom out far enough to get the bigger picture…So once you've keyed in the destination, I do not really know if the "voice" will actually take you on the road that you WANT to go….

On the last day of 2022 magical Annecy in the dark, needed to be explored in day-light too… so after breakfast in the junior suite, we duely packed our bags and struggled them downstairs to our car. Arno has al last figured out how to puzzle the bags into the limited space - His mission: nothing fall on the brave child, who volunteered to sit in the little 'post box' beside all the luggage. 

              

We made our way down to the old town centre and lake-front - hoping to park in the same spiral underground parking garage than the previous evening….BUT it was Saturday morning beside the lake and the place was heaving!! Joggers, families, cyclist, electric scooters, bicycles…dogs… you name it.

 Eventually we found a parking place up the hill, close to the Annecy Castle.The small cobbled streets of the old town were now filled with Saturday second-hand vendors. The girls were in their element, exploring the glass ornaments, old frames and cute little jewelry boxes. And it was busy with people…very busy!! We found a little patiserie and stock up on the nesaccery pan de chocolates. I tried a 'flan' - this is a tart-like treat, almost like the South African milk tart, but more dense in texture and a less sweet. Very yummie. Our first experience of the 'machine-coffees'...this one was really bad….

                

We were looking forward to our shorter(less than 3h's) drive to Saint Francois Longchamp(SFL for short), in the French Alps, south of Geneva. Well, in the attempt to drive through the coutryside, in stead of on the Toll roads, our gps took us back to Geneva, and not south as intended…so we were drivin in the wrong direction and we were stuck….on a motorway. Well, what can one do?? Breath and enjoy the scenery….

It was nearly dark when we eventually arrived in SFL 1650 (There is a SFL 1450 too - indicates the hight above sealevel) We made a stop down in the valley, to fuel up and to purchase some food and neseccities for the week (with the limited space in the car, the groceries for a week for 6 people were piled on the laps of people for the last 30km up the hill!)SFL was like a ant-nest….cars, people walking and on ski's EVERYWHERE!! Eventually we found the tourism office, where we were supposed to pick up our keys and linen. We lined up and waited patiently.While I got myself comfortable in the slow-moving que, Arno popped over to the ticket office, where he picked up our pre-booked ski-lift passes. I waited very patiently in line….. It was change-over day. EVERYBODY who were checking into the resort, could pick up their keys from 5pm…so this line was not short… Outside it was turning dusk and then dark….I was at the front of the line.

Yay!!

No???

Ok, there is another Tourism Office??

We found 'our' tourism office right next to where we've parked the car…in the relatively quiet area…… oh my goodness…we could have saved ourselves so much time, but let us not cry about spilled milk…

Apartment Blanc de Soleil A03 Navigating a new area in he dark is never a joke, but I am happy to report, with the help of Alana on google maps, we just did one or two wrong turns!! Our apartment block even had a lift from the level zero drop off car park. Thank you!!

A well fitted 'tiny house' for the next 7 days, welcomed us. Just a quick bag drop, then we had to rush over to the Sport2000shop to pick up the pre-booked ski's boots, snowboards and helmets. As with cycling, skiing and snowboarding has now also made the safety transition…nearly everyone is wearing helmetson the slopes, by own choice .

 Ski's and boots fitted So for those of you who do not know the details - just a short description: Ski's get allocated according to the athlete's length and weight and also ability level. The very hard plastic ski-boots needs to fit very tight, with the heel of your foot pressed hard against the back of the boot. Luckily, the inside of the shoe is well padded, but still…one's feet do suffer, more so if the boot is not tightened enough or if the boot is of the wrong design. As you hopefully can understand now, the whole process of picking up your ski's boots, poles and helmets can take considerable time. Once you've picked your boots, and your ski's have been chosen for you by the expert assistant….. It's not the end yet!! Now the boots needs to be fitted to the ski's. The tightness of the bindings also depends on your ability…normally quite accurately guessed by the assistant, according to the skier answering the questions posed in nearly understandable French-English: ' When was the last time you've skied? Expert? Intermediate?' 

Once the springs on the bindings have been set to the 'hopeful' right tension, you are good to go. 

Before you leave the shop a set of ski-poles get shuffed into your already full arms… now we were really ready for the next week of exhillirated fun, pain, laughter and memories that will last a lifetime.

Back in our cozy apartment, beds had to be made, dinner had to be prepared (no luxuy of dining out for BIG South African families on the ski-slopes of France!!), we had to find a place to store luggage and get a system going for dirty clothes and what to do with the wet boots and jackets. Eventhough the space was limted, we felt so blessed to be on the slopes as a family together. 

There was only two things missing.....cold weather, causing snowfall... and our German friends. Family Krause was supposed to have joined us in SFL. Unfortunately one of the girls was unwell, plus because it was a long drive for them and the snow conditions were really awefull, they decided to postpone their ski-week. Rightly so. We just missed them very much though!

Just as we were about to sit down to our meal, we were called outside on the little balcony for an unexpected firework show. That was a great red cherrie on the cake of 2022.

After dinner and special Hogmony pudding, the ski-week had to be kicked off in traditional fashion with a round of UNO and todd of schnaps!! And do  not forget the Hogmonay RAVE party for 6!!!

Bring on the snow 2023!!