Day 8 - Ghent and Brugge, and Beer and Kücken (19 Dec 2022)

 Hotel Onderberg was very good situated towards the centrum of Ghent, close to the Christmas market and surrounded by a few small Belgian bakeries. This was my early morning adventure. I got dressed, trying to be so quiet as possible, then sneaked out and walked the short distance to a little family-run' bäkerei'. I did not know what to choose form - everything looked so delicious. I decided on a few 'sjokenladen broodje's' and appel and kirsch(Cherry) 'Kücken' and some 'sachten boodje's'. 

                                        

What a feast we had for breakfaste?? Completed with room-brewed Aeropress Beans-About-Coffee (all the way form our beautiful Riebekee Kasteel) filter coffee.  

It was still a hard job to get everybody dressed and ready for…jet ANOTHER walking tour…This time with Civitas. But again this was such a great way of get beneath the surface of an beautiful city, helping us to unlocking the history and stories! It was a litlle bit difficult to understand our Spanish-native speaking guide, but he tried his best and we learned a lot about Ghent. 

Unknown to many, this city excited for a much longer time than the tourist favourites, Brugge and Antwerpen. The river, which runs through the town, used to be the most important mode of transport to export wool and grain.

 The soil surrounding Ghent is not very good for the production of grain, therefor a high tax was charged on grain transportation. We were shown the tax-house and also the storage place for the grain and wool. 

 

The wood-framed houses created a fairy tale atmosphere. We walked beside the river, then crossed over at the Gravenstein Castle - never to be defeated over all the centuries…..except by the students of Ghent in 1949!! The reason for this was - the government raised to tax on beer!! With the help of the fire brigade, the castle was reclaimed (after 3 hours) and the wish of the students was granted…tax went down again. Today, the  of November, students are still getting together at the castle to celebrate this victory!!

 

 

We made a brief stop at Friday Market Square. Here is a very big monument to honour the Duke of…… He joined forces with the English (and not the French) because he figured it will be better for the export of wool, contributing to the economy of Ghent. Unfortunately, he was asasinated at home. We also heard the funny story of what happened to the weaver's cloth, if it was not up to standard of the weaving gild…..it was hoisted up and displayed on the corner of the market sqaure to humiliate the weaver. What an embarrassment!! 

We stopped briefly at the famous Dulle Griet bierhaus. The story was, that the Duke did not like it when his carriage went over bumps in the road and made him spill his beer. He designed the contraption made from wood, with a 'bubble' beer glass hanging from it. The swinging 'beer glass' or 'coach beer' with a narrow neck, was design to eliminating the spillage! 

 

After our walking tour, we grabbed a few things form the grocery store and enjoyed the fresh Belgian cheeses and meats. Some more walking - the idea had a person or two already complaining- to the train station, direction Brugge. I had this dream…forever…to visit the Christmas market in Brugge. At last my dream was coming a reality.

Only 45min away, we travelled back in time. Easter 2001, Arno and I found ourselves in this little gem of a town. We've got memories of extreme budget camping in freezing conditions, cooking the most disgusting meal of canned meat and pasta on our camping stove.  

A stroll took us towards the town square, with an mandatory Brugge-stop at a macaroon confectionary. At 2E per piece, it must have been the most expensive treats we've ever had…making up for that terrible meal of 21 year ago! 

 

Since the only authentic food in Belgium is 'fritte' or French fry's as it's called by die rest of the world ( in South Africa we call it café chips or 'slap'chips), we thought it a good idea to visit the Fritte Museam. The story of the patato is told in this institution. Unfortunately I do not think it was the entry fee of 8E worth. I was a little disappointed. 

 The grey afternoon was turning into a wettish evening, depending on where you find yourself in the small ally ways, some of them turned into a ice-wind tunnel. BUT we were in Brugge and I was enjoying the fairy lights, smells of bratwurst and glüwein and the christmas music blaring form the loudspeakers, super enchanting. Staying with the patato-theme, I opt for a very delishious patato-creamy 'stirfried' dish. 

 

Before we could make our journey back to Ghent, we had one last appointment. Another one of our Riebeek friends has a daughter, who now lives just outside Brugge. Nocola and her hubby, Victor, were en-route after work to meet us. Bad weather and traffic delayed them, but we were very excited to meet them. Alana also stayed a few nights with them in April. They used to own a chocolaterie in Brugge, but sold that recently, because of the challenge to find relaiable staff to man the shop for them. Victor's main business is the marshmallow factory 30min south of Brugge. Next time we will definitely visit them there!! 

                                         

We loved the train journey back to Ghent and even the 30min walk back to our hotel was quite plesant. TO finish off our stay in Ghent, Arno and I returned to the Dulle Griet  for our last Begian beer. Victor introduced us to the 'Bruggse Zot' beer. I love this wiessbeer.

 We also learned earlier that it is respectful to turn the writing on your glass towards you.  

 

Gesundheid to België!