Monday 5 January 2015

Chasing Crabs with torchlights TO Underwater Viewings of Whale Sharks - Week 18

Week 18  - Thailand (Koh Lanta)
24th to 30th of November

This little stop in Koh Lanta just made all the difference!!!

After four months of travelling we were all getting a bit weary of sleeping in different beds every few nights, negotiating different menu’s and using challenging modes of transport…it was time for a little stop. A little breather….and the island of Koh Lanta could not have been a better destination for this. Close to Krabi and Phuket on the western coast of Southern Thailand, the island is reachable by a water taxi from both of them. We picked up the boat in Krabi and were on KL in two hours. I think it takes a bit longer form Phuket. Another option is to go by mini-bus over land, using two car ferries and do a bit of island hopping on your way there. We used this option for our return journey to the mainland. The island of Koh Phe Phe (the kids are still laughing about that name!!) is also in this area and many tourist do day trips over there. So what makes this area so popular? Well, it needs to be seen to be understood, but I’ll give it my best go!! The clear aqua marine blue see-through water, with the yellowy sandy beaches is almost enough…but then add on year-round 28 to 30 degrees seawater, with visibility up to 30 meters on the hot summers days, the palm trees, great cuisine and breath taking sunsets… Well, what more do one needs for a tropical dream holiday destination? Maybe a hammock on the beach?? Well, they are there too, plus the Thai-massage with the lull of the ocean in your ear and do not forget the marvellous exchange rate!!

As you could gather from Alana and Arno’s posts, we made the absolute most of this opportunity to rest, to play to learn new skills and make new friends!

Our two bungalows were set back form the beach on a hill amongst tropical vegetation. The Narima Resort was started 12 years ago by a Thai family, who has worked all their lives away form their birth island, but always had a dream to return and created a business to serve tourists but also provide career possibilities for native Thai’s. They secured a beautiful private beach and woodland area more than 20 years ago and then established the resort once they retired form their engineering jobs in Bangkok. We were honoured to meet the owner, who was seen to be meeting and greeting guests every morning at breakfast time. He even waved us goodbye on our leaving day!!

We were having so much fun on the beach and beside the infinity(!!!) pool, that we were really not too interested in travelling to far from the Narima. During my early morning run on our first day there, I located the Mini-marts and the big long white sandy beach!!! So after breakfast we took a tuk-tuk over to the shops to sort the little girlies out with new swimmies. We were sooo blessed to successful in one out of the three shops. The only ones available for children were in their sizes!! Ha!!! We decided to walk the 3 km or so back to our resort, but stopping on the beach for a play and a swim. After a little while we realised that it might be a good idea if we were to speed our walk back to Narima up a bit……VERY dark clouds were gathering and we could not really hide from them!! Thomas still has a bit of a ‘thing’ about thunder and lightning, so we were in for an exciting walk back!! Long story short…we did not even put on clothes over our swimmies but just walked back in another torrential rain shower. Here and there we were hiding underneath trees, hotel lobbies until the big water has passed us by. This was an challenging adventure back to our resort, but this unexpected rain shower provided us with the best opportunity to work together as a family. We had to be strong for one another, help each other (either carrying a shopping bag or a little one!!) and persevere to the end…regardless of the circumstances. I will always remember our two hour long walk back!!!!

Now, we met a fellow traveller in Xi’an, Ceaser form Spain. He told us about the cliff top restaurant with the bested sunset view in ‘all of the world’!! My word, Narima Resort was right beside it!!!!! So an energy recovery stop had to be made at the Diamond Cliff restaurant…and Ceaser…it is as marvellous and spectacular as you were making it out to be!! Thank you sooo much. We had some pancakes, coffee and mango-steamed rice (yum) there, while watching the lightning bolts striking the ocean on the horizon. Absolutely magical!!!!

The resident scuba diving school/shop (Scubafish) offered us a free come and try dive in the swimming pool. I saw this as my chance to get a taste for this underwater sport. Thomas joined me and our instructor John was so good at his job!! I did not feel unsafe and had a great time swimming on the bottom of the deep pool! Alana and Arno tried too, but they have already decided that they will be doing the 2 (Alana) and 4 (Arno) day training. You can read some more of their experiences here.

So the rest of us just enjoyed the restful time in and out of the water, while A and A were watching safety and training video’s, writing exams and practising in the pool.

This week turned out to be such a great fun filled ‘holiday’ amongst weeks of extreme travelling. We made friends with Isabelle, Florian and their two boys (Paul and Felix) form Germany. Thomas really enjoyed all the cuddles with little Felix, who just turned one. Paul and our little girls spend hours in the pool, jumping, baby-diving and perfecting their underwater swimming. With the awesome layout of the Narima resort (private beach with beach bar, half way up the steps was the infinity pool and then at the top of the steps the restaurant overlooking the pool) I felt pretty confident to let the children play in the pool or on the beach at their own leisure. What a joy to have ‘swimming’ children. This all gave me some precious chill out time sitting in a bamboo chair doing some reading or writing AND working on my sun kissed look!!

The lovely Isabelle then invited the kids and I to come on a traditional long-tail boat accompanying them on a day trip to the Bu-Bu island on the eastern side of the island. I was so thankful, because Arno and Alana was due to go on a diving boat for their first deep sea dives and for Alana to complete her scuba diving certificate. So, off we went early morning for the 45 minute drive across the island in the signature pick-up truck taxi thingy. We were taken to the mangrove forest that connect the two Lanta islands. A rickety walkway above the dark muddy swamp, took us out to where we boarded our long-tail boat.
An interesting boat ride followed, including a stop to feed the ‘swimming monkeys’. One actually boarded the boat…I just tried to keep the kids and myself well clear from this little mister. I’ve heard of so many stories where monkeys, which are used to being fed, get a bit out of sorts and biting people. For that reason, I will never trust a monkey to come near the kids or I.
Once docked on the Bu-Bu Island, we found ourselves a little quiet spot and just enjoyed the lovely warm water, pretty shells and the Robinson Crusoe feel of the island. Unfortunately the visibility was next to zero, so the planned snorkeling did not happen. We rounded a great day off, with a little trip to our nearby mini-mart for some ice creams. We were also so looking forward to hear all Alana and Arno’s stories after day on the diving boat….

The feedback was one of overwhelming awe about the under-water wonder world. Arno could not wait for his next dive and Alana was so pleased that she was now qualified to dive down to 12 meters, accompanied by a diving instructor or master diver. She was also looking forward in just relaxing for the next few days, examining the sea world, chasing crabs and playing in the pool. So big, but still so little……

You can not visit Thailand and not attend a Thai cook school of some kind. I was soo excited. Alana wanted to join me, so the two of us were picked up by a driver, who was sent by the Lanta Thai Cook School. We picked up a few other ‘chefs’ on the way and arrived at the double story wall-less school. As a group of 7 people, we had to choose 4 out of the 10 suggested options. We decided to make a fried rice dish, a red curry, a ginger stir fry and banana fritters. We first prepped all the veggies, then we tackled one dish at a time, eat it (Yay!!!) and then moved onto the next one!! It was such a great time for Alana and I to cook together and enjoy learning together. The thing about Thai cuisine, I’ve learned during this experience, is that you need to do ALL your prep and then just cook the food quickly. Not one dish took longer than 5 minutes to fully cook…. This was just the bestest afternoon!!!


Another little sweet moment we had was a date night of just Arno and I dining out on our own, just the two of us…yes…we managed to get the kids to bed early and then relaxed at the beach restaurant. While waiting on our food we realised that background music was actually a collection of worship music! We felt soo blessed!!
Then I saw something moving VERY quickly love the sand...with further investigation Arno discovered that the beach were filled with crabs. Apparently they know that there will be nobody to interfere with their own time on the beach, once it is night time...or so they thought.....
The following evening Arno took the kids, kitted out with torches, down to the beach. A new game of finding a innocent crabby AND than changing it to the water side with the light of the torch, excited giggles and delightful squeals following. The kids (and their dad) had the best fun! I even felt that I was missing out and just had to join in too!!!!

Arno’s last day of diving saw him qualified as a Padi Open Water diver, down to 18 meters. He had tears in his eyes as he was trying to describe the beauty of the unseen world to many, me included. His little farewell present was to have the honor to see a whale shark cruising by….

Thailand, especially the Narima Resort, has completely ran away with our hearts. We would absolutely love to come back here….meeting up with our new friends (who’s been here a number of times now)..doing some more diving… Thomas joining Arno and Alana and maybe even the mama……

Our Thai-time was running out now. We’ve met up with wonderful locals and international globetrotters, animal encounters to our hearts content, many hours spend on trains….curries and pineapple-fried rice. Oh Thailand, I will be missing you..(minus the ants though….)

We were very sad to leave all our Narima friends. We were getting a lunch time bus traveling across the Lantas, using two short ferry boats, to the mainland, heading for Krabi Airport. Our final night was spend in the Bencha Mountain Resort. Mr ….. sent a big minibus to collect us from there and transport us the 20 minutes over to the resort. We travelled through palm and rubber plantations and were surprised by a little karst mountain, with the resort at its foot. In the process of into and out of taxi’s, Thomas left his little day pack. We eventually tracked the driver down AND managed to have it returned to us…but all his last saved pocket money pounds were being used for the extremely high fee the taxi driver was charging us for the return of the bag…. A big thank you to the owner of Bencha for helping us to locate the bag and organising the return of it.


 The Bencha Resort consisted out of a collection of stone bungalows perch up a very steep hill. It was an mission to get our luggage up to our house!!  A sweet resort, but a little bit rough around the edges. After our amazingly enjoyable week at Narima, I felt a little bit cheated out of my happy Thai memories. We were just booked in for one night before catching our flight to Delhi, via Kuala Lumpur.


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